Saturday, November 10, 2012

Midnight Sun Brewing - Arctic Devil (2011)

Midnight Sun has a lot to say about this one, so I'll let them take it away:

"Arctic Devil Barley Wine, aptly named after the ferocious wolverine of the north, is an English-style (meaning malt-inclined) barley wine. Though the recipe and process for Arctic Devil have evolved over the years, it is brewed once a year then aged in oak barrels for several months before the entire batch is blended, bottled and released[...] In its youth, Arctic Devil gnarls and snarls its way across the palate. Containing this beast of a beer for long periods in oak barrels--some having previously aged port, wine or whiskey--tames the unleashed malt and fierce hop flavors, melding and mellowing this powerful liquid into an incredible elixir worthy of a brewer's table. 

Each annual batch of Arctic Devil Barley Wine represents the brewers' resolve to create an intriguing and sought-after barley wine by precisely brewing to well-designed specifications, carefully selecting the type and combination of barrels to use for aging, and meticulously checking the beer as it ages. Distinct nuance and complexity are contributed by the wood's previous tenants, resulting in unique flavor profiles in each batch that continue to change over time. We invite you to savor Arctic Devil Barley Wine upon its release then cellar some for future enjoyment."

Arctic Devil is an annual winter release from Midnight Sun, an Alaska-based brewery. AD hits the west coast only from my understanding and usually gets snatched up within hours, so it's not easy to come by. I'm drinking the 2011 vintage, which is listed around 13.4% ABV.
Appearance: Rich chestnut brown with a reddish-copper tint, and a very thin head that recedes quickly and doesn't leave much residual lacing on the sides of the glass.

Smell: The smell is rich and complex, with notes of caramel, brown sugar, sour cherry, toffee, and vanilla.

Taste: Red wine comes through on the palate in a major way, along with notes of vanilla and cherry like on the nose. There is also a great sweet maple flavor.

Mouthfeel: It's medium bodied, but that's actually a surprisingly thin finish for the style. It's not oily or chewy and finishes relatively clean.

Overall: A year ago, I may have called this my favorite barleywine. Since then, I've tried King Henry, which is now in the top spot; still, this is a worthy and delicious second. It's rich and complex, and though it surely is malt-accented, it's actually not too overbearingly sweet, since there are perceptible sour-like or acid characteristics from the port or red wine notes. Some wish the mouthfeel had more body, but I'm actually okay with it being a little thinner, in this case. Generally it is kind of discombobulating to drink such a big beer with a thinner mouthfeel, but here, given the complexity of flavors including the aforementioned acidity, I found that the lighter body improves its drinkability. Overall, this is a solid, wonderful beer and a great choice for the colder months.

5/5

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